A short story of wool

A brief history of wool at the turn of the centuries

The use of wool dates back to ancient times and was closely tied to both nomadic and sedentary pastoralism. Alongside agriculture, wool was a fundamental element in the economy of early human societies.

Livestock, especially sheep, became so valuable that animals were often used as a form of currency—a fact reflected in language itself: the Latin word pecunia (money) comes from pecus, meaning flock or livestock.

Wool, therefore, was not only a practical material for clothing and shelter but also a symbol of wealth and trade, deeply woven into the fabric of early civilization.

As early as 4,000 years ago, the Babylonians were already spinning wool—albeit in a rudimentary way—using the fleece of sheep they raised primarily for food.

In ancient Greece, wool processing became a source of pride for women, especially during the Homeric era, where spinning and weaving were symbols of domestic skill. Similarly, in ancient Rome, wool was closely associated with household virtue and the role of women in family life.

Some of the most renowned wools of antiquity came from Miletus, Attica, and Taranto, prized for their whiteness and finesse.

Wool processing, driven by a steadily growing market, spread from the Middle East, Greece, and Egypt into northern Italy and Spain, giving rise to important guilds of wool workers (lanarii). Major production centers included Tiatira, Ephesus, and Brescia.

By the Middle Ages, wool had become the foundation of a thriving industry, central to international trade. The exchange of raw wool, dyes, and finished textiles spanned all of Europe, shaping economies and societies alike.

In Italy, the barbarian invasions caused significant damage to sheep farming, leading to a long period of decline. For several centuries, the wool market stagnated, producing only low-quality goods and failing to compete internationally.

A true revival began in the 13th century, initially thanks to large imports of high-quality wool from the Moorish regions. This was soon followed by a renewed local production, which gradually grew in quality and was eventually able to rival the renowned Flemish wool market.

At the heart of this revival were the regions of Tuscany and Lombardy, with key cities such as Lucca, Florence, Milan, Bergamo, Como, Monza, and Brescia playing central roles.

Initially, Lucca held the leading position in the wool trade, but by the late 13th century, the primacy passed to Florence, which would go on to become one of the great textile capitals of Europe.

In the mid-fourteenth century, Italy and Flanders faced English competition, which produced highly appreciated fabrics.

By the 16th century, the English wool industry had become increasingly flourishing and competitive, contributing to the decline of Flemish and Italian wool production, which had previously dominated European markets.

During the 17th century, wool manufacturing spread throughout England, transforming from a cottage industry into a true industrial enterprise. Factories began to resemble modern manufacturing plants, marked by an advanced division of labor and the emergence of significant social and economic challenges, especially for the working class.

A major turning point came in 1810, when Great Britain established the first mechanical spinning mills, ushering in a new era of textile production. By the mid-19th century, the introduction of worsted processing—a method that produces smooth, strong yarn from long-staple wool—further solidified Britain’s global leadership in wool textiles.

In later periods, wool production resumed in other parts of the world, particularly in areas where abundant waterfacilitated processing, sheep farming was widespread, and high-quality wool could be obtained.

Over time, the most industrialized nations came to dominate the wool industry. These countries relied heavily—or entirely—on imported raw materials, leveraging their access to skilled labor and proximity to major markets to maintain competitive advantage.

Wool industries also emerged in several developing countries, though in most cases they focused on local consumptionand operated on a relatively small scale.

https://www.encyclopedia.com/sports-and-everyday-life/fashion-and-clothing/textiles-and-weaving/wool

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